STUDI PENCENGAHAN ABRASI PANTAI AKIBAT GELOMBANG AIR LAUT PADA KAWASAN PESISIR

Abstract

The beach is a meeting area between land, sea and air where there is a dynamic interaction between water, wind and the constituent materials in it. This causes the coast to be vulnerable to changes, where these changes can cause damage to coastal areas. Coastal damage can be caused by wind movement, resulting in currents wave generation and can cause shoreline changes. This study aims to find out how to prevent and overcome abrasion caused by sea waves.This study aims to see changes in coastal abrasion that occur. Coastal abrasion can be caused by natural changes and human activities. Among the factors caused by human actions are man-made structures such as groins, jetties, harbor breakwaters and reclamation parallel to the shoreline, construction of dams on the upstream side of rivers and diversions (diversion of river currents), sand mining in coastal waters, and removal of natural beach protection. namely logging mangrove forests and taking coral reefs. The results of the analysis of wind data in May 2016 show that the wind direction originates from the northwest towards the mainland which has a fault value of 48.% with a wind speed of 4-7 knots. 8.77 seconds These conditions indicate normal conditions on the coast which do not result in major abrasion. These meteorological conditions have almost the same value at research locations A (far from marine structures) and B (close to marine structures). The results of sediment transport analysis can be used to assess how much the shoreline changes every year. The results of the sediment analysis show that within sixteen years, the longshore sediment transport rate is 2,043,475.13 m³. The dominant direction of sediment is towards the East. The potential annual sediment transport rate parallel to the shore is 127,717.20 m³. In accordance with the conditions in the field, there has been a decline in the coastline and siltation of river mouths.